There are a few major crossroads around the world for ocean-going sailboats, and one of the most iconic is Horta in the Azores. With over 1200 yachts reported to call in Horta each year, it’s a hubbub of sailing activity.
Sailboats are rafted three-deep to the inner breakwaters that protect the marina, and at least 50 other boats (Madrone included) bob at anchor inside the outer jetty. A steady stream of boats arrive each day, with a more or less equal number preparing for departure.
Upon arrival, the captain of each boat checks in with the marina, customs, and immigration. But immediately after that, most folks’ first stop is Peter Cafe Sport. Now in its third generation of family ownership, the waterfront cafe has been welcoming sailors for over 100 years. In addition to serving up cold drinks and surprisingly good food, the staff at the cafe receive and hold mail for incoming boats, arrange for repair services, and generally try to help out in any way they can.
But there’s more to Horta than just the boats. Built up the southwest slope of the dormant (for now) volcano that forms the island of Faial, the town is a scenic collection of old whitewashed houses with red tile roofs. The storm shutters on nearly every building speak to the winter storms that hammer the island repeatedly, and the summer tropical storms that meander this far east occasionally. Both the small airport just outside of town and the ferry terminal on the north side of the harbor bring land tourists to enjoy the hospitality of the town as well as the many hiking opportunities near town.
All of the pleasure boats that stop are just the latest in Horta’s long history of marine traffic. The ships from the navies of the European sea powers regularly called, either to anchor in peacetime or to raid during wartime. Ancient fortifications around the island are a reminder of the old threat of pirates and privateers. And until the 1950s, whaling ships made Horta a regular stop.
Madrone’s crew has found it easy to settle into rhythm in Horta. Coffee and rolls at one of the many cafes in town, slowly refilling ship’s stores at the excellent grocery store in town, and meandering walks through town are a perfect way to relax and recharge.
