We have mixed feelings about sailing to Kaua’i. On one hand, it’s our favorite of the Hawaiian Islands, and we were looking forward to the roughly 100 mile overnight sail across the channel.
Departing from beautiful Makua Beach
On the other hand, Kaua’i is the end of the road for most cruising boats. Nihau is a bit further to the west, but it’s a private island and outsiders are rumored to not be welcome. And, the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument also stretches some 1200 miles westward, but going ashore is subject to permit only. So, it’s likely that Madrone will be heading home to the mainland from Kaua’i.
With a forecast of moderate trade winds of 20 knots and 5′ wind waves, we set off from Makua. As usual near a point or headland, the wind really turned on near Kaena Point – we saw steady 25-30 knots and our speed topped 9 knots before we were able to put an extra reef in the main and the jib.
Sailing northwest from Oahu to Kaua’i
As we reached 5 miles or so from land, the wind backed off to its forecasted level, and we enjoyed a screaming beam reach at 7-8 knots as the sun set in the west.
A few squalls blew by throughout the evening and early morning. These bring increased winds as they approach, and then they tend to suck the wind away as they pass. We would see winds near 30 knots as the squall arrived, only to see the wind drop to less than 10 knots as it passed. Sometimes they were accompanied by rain, sometimes not.
Overnight passage complete with the discovery of a flying fish on deck
Our passage coincided with a new moon, so without moonlight the night was dark. But there’s not much to see anyway, and the lack of moonlight meant that the stars seemed even brighter.
We did get one radio call from a coast guard helicopter – they were flying from Kaua’i to Oahu and just radioed down to check that everything was OK as they passed overhead. And we crossed paths with some kind of very large, very fast-moving US Navy ship – surprisingly enough, they didn’t identify themselves to us…
Enjoying the ride
We made the ~100 miles in less than 16 hours. The timing for our approach to Hanalei Bay turned out to be perfect – we arrived just as the sun was rising and were treated to beautiful light on the green cliffs towering over the bay.
