An easy and smooth nine miles north of Isla San Francisco, San Evaristo is the first sign of human life north of La Paz. While some guidebooks call it a town, the collection of small houses and dirt roads in and out stretch that definition.
What San Evaristo lacks in development, however, it makes up for in hospitality. A small house on the south shore of the fishing village is a restaurant that serves up big bowls of freshly-made ceviche, which in turn is made from freshly-caught fish that’s been pulled in that morning. Giant platters of the same fish are served along with tortillas and freshly-made salsas for the best fish tacos since the outside of Baja.
And it’s all served with a welcoming smile. When we asked if there was a place nearby to buy a few liters of gas for our dingy engine, “Sure, we’ll share some of ours” was the reply.
Besides the restaurant, the other development in town is a small grocery store. It’s a cinder block building, and it’s a bit dark inside because there’s no electricity so no lights. The welcome is the same however – the friendly women on the porch are quick to caution Mike to not hit his head on the low porch roof, while the storekeeper and his three-year old daughter are both happy to have some folks come in to break up the day.
San Evaristo marks Madrone’s turning point in the Sea of Cortez; we need to head south to make it back to the Puerto Vallarta area for some family visits and a safe berth for hurricane season. And our friends aboard S/V Luego are continuing north to haul their boat out of the water for the season. It’s hard to say goodbye to good friends, so instead we just say “See you in the fall!”