Bahia Tic Toc indents the coastline of the Chilean mainland at about the same latitude as the southern edge of the island of Chiloe. The bay looks as if it is an Ice Age remnant – glacier-carved valleys descend from snow-capped granite mountains, all towering over the dense forest.
The bay itself is home to at least four good anchorages. We spent our first night in Puerto Escondido where we surprisingly met a local Chilean cruising boat – a pair of families aboard Doña Lucy generously invited us aboard to share their locally harvested mussels, their seemingly endless supply of Carmenere wine, and their equally endless good cheer. Our second night found us in the splendid solitude and perfect protection of the ring of islands that forms Puerto Juan Yates.
Tall mountains descending nearly vertically to sea level – Bahia Tic Toc is the exact embodiment of the Chilean anchorage of our imagination.