Past Fastnet Rock, the tiny village of Crookhaven, and the elevated walkway of Mizen Head, the coast of Ireland turns the corner. Instead of West Cork’s south-facing coast, with some relief from the incessant northwest swell of the open Atlantic, this part of the shoreline faces directly west – there’s only open water between here and Newfoundland in Canada.
This stretch of coast is deeply indented by a series of bays. Actually geologic formations known as rias, or drowned river valleys, these bays make the coastline similar to northwest Spain.
Bantry Bay is the southernmost of the larger rias, and it proved to be a good introduction to the west coast of Ireland. Rounding Mizen Head at the southeast tip, the first of the northwest swell makes itself felt, and a series of the nearly ubiquitous rain squalls that keep Ireland so green dotted the horizon.
With a near gale forecast, Oso took shelter in Glengariff Bay, a tortuous indentation on the north shore deep inside Bantry Bay. With 30+ knot winds whistling over the open water, Oso’s anemometer read 10-15 knots in the protected waters of the bay. Grey harbor seals dotted the small islands and rocks of the bay at low tide, also enjoying the respite from the open water.
Near the westernmost exit of Bantry Bay, the fishing town of Castletown Berehaven provides a good spot for provisioning – grocery carts from the well-stocked supermarket can be rolled out of the store, across the street, down the ramp to the municipal dock, all before being unloaded into the waiting dinghy. And as a working town, rather than a tourist town, Castletown Berehaven features the preponderance of bars and pubs endemic to fishing villages – we counted more than 10 along the high street for an area population of less than 4000 people.
To the north lies the idyllic beaches of Derrynane, nestled in a backdrop of towering green hills, with (of course) a small Irish pub just a short stroll inland from the beach. And further north still to the current-wracked headland off Valentia Island, the iconic Skelligs (refuge to Luke Skywalker), and Dingle Bay.
Welcome to the west coast of Ireland.
