North of the popular boating hangout of Staniel Cay, the already thin level of available services and signs of civilization evaporate even further, the islands themselves get even prettier, and the already impossibly clear water somehow reaches new levels of transparency.

Anchored in Emerald Bay in the Land and Sea Park
Park headquarters on Warderick Wells Cay
Hiking on Warderick Wells

The central and northern section of the Exumas archipelago is dominated by the Exumas Cays Land and Sea Park. Formed in the late 1950s, the park protects over 100k acres of pristine islands and beaches. Since fishing is not allowed in the park, sea life is plentiful. Mangrove-lined tidal estuaries are home to myriad sea turtles, fish, and baby sharks.

Lovely beaches and beautiful waters of Shroud Cay
Dinghy touring in the mangroves on Shroud Cay
Perched on the bow for turtle viewing

North of the park is Norman’s Cay, famous as Carlos Lehder‘s hub for cocaine shipments from Colombia to the US. And just one cay to the south, within easy binocular range, is the site of Camp Driftwood, a DEA outpost established on Shroud Cay to keep tabs on the planes of the drug operation.

Shroud Cay dinghy pass to the Exumas Sound side
Unbelievably crystal clear turquoise water
View to the southeast from Camp Driftwood
Large shark cruising through the anchorage at Shroud Cay

There’s the occasional fancy marina and a couple of restaurants (lunch at McDuff’s was eye-wateringly expensive for decidedly average fare), but for the most part the attractions are the water and the sand. And those attractions alone are absolutely worth the admission.

Flat-water sailing on the bank in the lee of the Exumas island chain
Onshore at Norman’s Cay
On our way to a very expensive yet mediocre lunch…
Plane wreck at Norman’s Cay – thought to be a drug running plane that crashed into the water near the landing strip