Just north and east of the Exumas lies Eleuthera, a main island and small collection of outlying cays. The west side of Eleuthera forms the edge of the Great Bahama Bank, while the east side abuts the open Atlantic Ocean.


A long, thin crescent, the main island of Eleuthera is about 100nm long and rarely more than a mile or two wide. Since it’s mostly a single island (in contrast to the scattered cays of the Exumas), Eleuthera has been easier to develop, and there are 4 or 5 small towns sprinkled around, with private houses and small hotels scattered here and there.


That is a perfect setup for hungry and thirsty sailors whose supplies have been running low after a month largely away from reprovisioning opportunities. We did a major grocery shopping trip and refilled our propane bottle in the southern town of Rock Sound, the largest settlement on Eleuthera (population around 900).

From there, Oso sailed north as the wind allowed. Since the entire western side of the island is a natural lee from the prevailing easterly winds, we were able to enjoy a few hours of sailing before dropping anchor off another white sand beach with more crystal clear water.


Eleuthera is fantastic in its own right, and it’s a great change of pace. Highly recommended.