Heading south for a first trip on the ICW, we weren’t quite sure what to expect. What we got was a completely different experience than a typical ocean passage.
The first difference is the quantity of boats. Since nearly the entire length of the ICW is sheltered from open ocean conditions, this “inside” route is significantly more popular than the “outside” (or ocean) route for boats heading south for the season. This means that there’s nearly always other boats around. There are small sailboats creeping along at 4-5 knots and fast powerboats zipping by at 20 knots or more.
Local custom on the ICW says that a faster boat overtaking a smaller one should make radio contact first to set up arrangements for passing – which side, and what speed to minimize uncomfortable or even dangerous wake. This means that the VHF radio channels are full of boats contacting one another. And just like on land, while most folks are able to make arrangements with others in a civilized, mature way, there are a few folks who seem to have gotten out of the wrong side of their bunk that morning and are irritated that other boats are going faster, or slower, or are taking up too much of the channel.
The second big difference between the ICW and the open ocean is the clearance, both above and below the boat. While the entire ICW is purportedly dredged to a controlling depth of 10-12 feet (3-3.5m), maintenance is behind schedule. So, there are plenty of spots where the depth is considerably less, especially outside the middle of the channel. Unlike in the vast majority of the open ocean, in the ICW it pays to keep one eye on the depth sounder.
And for sailboats, the space below the boat is not the only challenge. Just between Norfolk, Virginia, and Beaufort, North Carolina, there are 24 road and rail bridges crossing the ICW. Some of these are lifting or swing bridges that will open on request or on a schedule, but many are built to the official 65′ (19.8m) minimum clearance.
And just because this is the US, there has to be an exception to the rule – one bridge was built with only 64′ clearance (despite the 65′ minimum clearance). With a mast height between 63.5 and 64′, we kept the eye that wasn’t on the depth sounder aimed up at the bottom side of the bridge as Madrone crept through, listening closely for the sound of our mast-mounted VHF antenna to ping against the underside of the bridges.
So what’s the verdict after four days of dawn-dusk motoring down the ICW from Norfolk to Beaufort? Spending a few days on the ICW was a new experience and we’re glad we checked it out. While motoring in a narrow channel can get tiring, there’s also plenty of good scenery, opportunities to see wildlife on shore, and of course plenty of other boats to check out.
But Madrone is an ocean boat, and she and her crew are ready to be back in the ocean.
