Sweden is bisected by a series of rivers, lakes, and canals so that it’s possible to travel all the way from the one coast to the other by boat. The Gota Canal originates on Sweden’s east coast near Stockholm, the Trollhattan Canal together with the Gota River leads inland from Gothenburg, and the two meet in the giant inland lake of Vanern.

Heading up the Gota River through Gothenburg
Redeveloped neighborhood of Eriksberg
Tall ship coming down the Gota River
Hising bridge lift to accommodate Madrone’s mast

Vanern is 145’/44m above sea level, so access to the lake from the west coast is via a series of six locks. The primary locks are located in the town of Trollhattan, the site of Sweden’s first large-scale hydropower plant. After a number of unsuccessful attempts in the 1700s, the locks were first opened for transit in 1800, allowing goods to be easily transported from the coast into the interior of the country. The locks were rebuilt in 1844, and then again in 1916, to support larger ships – freighters up to 290’/89m long and 44’/13m wide can transit the locks.

Arriving at the entrance to the Trollhatten staircase locks
Angie controlling the bow with a line to a bollard in the lock wall
Madrone at the top of the lock, ready to drive out
On our way again
While transiting the canal we stopped for a few nights at the marina on the island of Spikon in Trollhatten

Madrone was dwarfed by the giant lock walls and doors of the locks. Angie controlled the bow with a line to a set of vertically-spaced bollards set into the lock wall while Mike hooked an escape ladder with a boat hook from the stern. As the water level rose in the lock, it was a constant dance to keep the boat in one place – close enough to the wall to stay in control, but far enough away to not get scratched up by the rough lock walls.

Both nights we had a duck visitor who rested in our dinghy
She left an egg behind every morning!
From the marina in Spikon we could walk back to the locks to check them out
Looking down the staircase lock to the river below

For efficiency, the locks are operated remotely via monitoring cameras from a central control site, so there are no other people around. Like magic, the forward door slowly swings open after the lock is filled, and Madrone is at the highest point she’s ever been!

The area around the locks is a park. There are a few sets of old, non-functional locks to walk around and view
Old set of staircase locks
We enjoyed watching the boat traffic go through the locks that Madrone had transited the day before. Here a large ship is entering
Angie inspecting the clearance
Tight fit- good thing these ships are made for the lock size
Lock gates ready to open