Humpback whales are world travelers. Living and eating in the far north or south during the summer season, they swim thousands of miles to warmer, more protected waters in the winter for mating and giving birth.
Somewhat inexplicably, as the calm water around Niue is limited to a several mile stretch on the west coast, many humpbacks choose this remote island as their winter cruising grounds. Each year, several hundred whales take up residence off the island between April and October (southern hemisphere winter).
Because the island itself is not very large, and the water around what land there is is so deep, the whales are often very close to shore. From the cliffs of the island, it’s easy to spot the distinctive misty blows of the whales, as well as many breaches, waving flippers, and arched backs and unique tails as they dive for deeper waters.
Niue’s moorings for visiting boats are located in water depths of 80-100’/25-30m, and this is plenty deep for the humpbacks. Whales regularly cruise through the mooring field between the moored boats. While here, we’ve been awaken by a whale breathing immediately behind the boat, been amazed at the sounds of whale calls vibrating through the hull at night, and spent many hours enjoying the sights of the giant animals (similar in size to Oso) gently cruising beside the boat.
Niue is one of the few places that allows respectful swimming with whales. Tours are available from one of two licensed and trained operators aboard small inflatable boats. Whales that are traveling from place to place are too fast for humans to swim with, and at up to 40 tons of weight, whales that are breaching or cavorting at the surface are too dangerous to be near. But humpbacks also swim slowly or drift while resting, and these whales offer an opportunity for closer observation.
After spotting likely looking whales (usually a group of two or three together, for some reason), the boat slowly approaches from the island side of the whale, so as not to make the whale feel like they are being chased from behind, threatened from ahead, or trapped by land. The boat slowly maneuvers to within 350-700’/100-200m, but no closer. The group of swimmers (6 in our case) drop into the water and quietly kick over to have a look at the resting whales. Luckily for the swimmers, and for the whales, the water is crystal clear and visibility is not an issue.
Humpbacks have incredible lung capacity, and they stay down 10-20 minutes between breaths, unmoving in around 35-70’/10-20m water depth as they rest. Then, without any kind of communication visible our audible to humans, they begin a synchronized rise – all ascending at the same time and at the same speed. Usually the whales completely ignore the swimmers, but on the way up for one breath the whales seemed curious about the small foreign creatures in the water and had a closer look. A few breaths at the surface, and then down again for another round of resting.
An unbelievable whale experience, both above the water and below.
