Tonga’s Vava’u group of islands lies about 50nm to the north of the Ha’apai group. Despite the geographic proximity and the cultural similarities, the two archipelagos couldn’t be more different.

The wave-carved windward side of Kenutu Island on Vava’u’s east side…

Where islands in Ha’apai are low and sandy, the shores of Vava’u are largely rocky and steep. Where the islands of Ha’apai are laid out more or less in a long straight line, Vava’u’s islands sit in a concentric spiral, with the center at Neiafu’s port of refuge.

…is the opposite of Kenutu’s protected leeward side
This highly venomous banded sea krait had no problem slithering up the slippery, vertical transom of our dingy

The layout of the islands of Vava’u ensures that there are plenty of well-protected anchorages for nearly any wind direction, and the multitude of islands knocks down any appreciable ocean swell. Both the flat-water conditions and the line-of-sight navigation make Vava’u a very easy place to sail – perfect for the charter business.

Oso waits patiently at anchor for a sunnier, windier day
Vava’u features plenty of sandbars for low-tide exploration
Peaceful Vava’u evening – Lisa’s anchorage, aka #10

And charter boats proliferated from the mid-80s until the start of Covid, at which point international travel became difficult enough that the charter bases closed. But many anchorages are still called by their numbers on the map for charterers – it’s common to hear on the radio “We’re leaving eleven and heading over to seventeen; see you there!”

Dean from SV Sentijn started a business making and selling fishing lures. He’s already an accomplished sailor, having transited the NW Passage with his parents a couple of years ago
Crank faster!

After a few months with plenty of big winds and big seas, a few weeks of peaceful cruising in Vava’u is a perfect respite!

Overlooking Neiafu to Vava’u’s outer islands
Everywhere we walked in Vava’u, we shared the road with local pigs