The Purerua Peninsula forms northern edge of the Bay of Islands, and Rangihoua Bay is a small crescent on its south side. In 1814, Samuel Marsden culminated a 10 year effort by landing the first Christian missionaries in New Zealand on the sand beach in front of this bay. Today, a large cross commemorates the first Christian sermon in NZ, delivered by Marsden on Christmas Day that year.

Marsden Cross Rangihoua Bay
Oso sitting quietly at anchor in Rangihoua Bay

The small village founded by the missionaries was located next to a larger Maori town, but the villagers struggled to adapt to the new place and new climate. Despite building houses and a school, within 5 years the mission had moved to the nearby town of Keri Keri on the other side of the bay, and the settlement was completely abandoned a few years later.

Trails crisscross through the beautiful park landscape
Educational information boards throughout the park relay the history of the mission settlement, daily life and the relationships and cross cultural connections with local Maori people and leaders
  

The area is now preserved as a park. But with the exception of a large cross marking the location of Marsden’s first sermon, and the terracing of a prominent hill left over from the Maori town, there would be little sign of either the first European settlers or the Maori in this area. Green hills plunge steeply to the blue waters of the bay, and sheep graze on the surrounding ridgetops. An occasional local boat drops anchor for a few minutes to cast for fish, but they soon leave Oso alone with the history of New Zealand again.

Looking out over the Bay of Islands
Native New Zealand Pohutukawa tree along the shore of Rangihoua Bay  
  Oso’s anchor light reflecting on the still water near dark