Leaving Pelican, we started to work our way down the rugged west coast of Chichagof Island. Although partially exposed to the Gulf of Alaska, much of the coast is protected by a string of rocks, reefs, and kelp patches.
These features help cut down on the swell and wind chop from the Gulf, and they provide a beautiful backdrop to what is already a scenic coastline. As a tradeoff, they also create a navigation challenge. Just as we’ve found elsewhere in Alaska, the charts here provide good guidance but don’t tell the complete story. We proceeded slowly, double checking the chart against the litany of small islands, rock outcroppings, and shoals marked by kelp, whitewater and breaking waves.
White Sulphur Hot Springs is located about 15 miles south of Lisianski Strait,
and one member of Madrone’s crew requires a stop at every hot spring.Landing the dinghy at a trailhead about a mile away, we started our hike and soon came across a grassy meadow. “That looks just like the meadows where we usually see grizzly bears,” commented Angie. Another 100 yards, and we find a pile of fresh bear scat in the trail. About 100 yards later, we find a set of animal bones scattered across the trail. Fifty yards beyond that, we find bear prints and huge holes where swamp cabbage plants used to be.
It’s definitely brown bear country here, and our hikes on shore are a lot shorter than they would normally be…