What is it about a place that makes it feel just right?
A Coruña is a small city of ~300k Galicians perched along the shores of one of the many Rias Altas (upper bays). To take advantage of a bit of city life and to prep the boat (foreshadowing alert!) for a future sail across the notorious Bay of Biscay, Madrone parked in Marina Real. Located on the broad promenade that traces the waterfront, the marina provides instant access to the center of town. And what a town it is.
For us, a maritime history makes a place feel like home. A Coruña has been a shipping port and stopping point for traveling boats for well over 2,000 years. Originally built sometime in the first century AD, the Torre de Hercules (Tower of Hercules) at the entrance to the bay is the planet’s oldest known lighthouse still in operation. A mix of pleasure boats, fishing boats, and commercial traffic steadily sail into and out of the Ria, enjoying the easy access to outside waters.
Two of our favorite hobbies are eating and drinking, and these two activities are undertaken with considerable gusto by the locals. Unlike the US, where meal times are squeezed into the work day, here the working hours seem to be bent to fit times to eat and drink. The main shopping and pedestrian streets are dotted with small restaurants and cafes, nearly all of which seem to be completely full any time they’re open. Whether it’s enjoying a leisurely morning cortado, a long early afternoon lunch, or a cana or two during the late afternoon siesta, the townspeople seem to have work-life balance figured out. And this is all before dinner hour (which in typical Spanish style peaks at around 10 or 11pm), when the dining scene really comes alive.
And the city is a beautiful one. Well-maintained historic churches and buildings, along with the remnants of the walls guarding the original town, line the narrow winding streets. The waterfront buildings are notable for their galerias, or glassed in porches that allow residents to enjoy the scenic views while protecting against the gales rolling in from the Bay of Biscay.
For us, A Coruña is one of those places that feels like home away from home. We hope that we can come back one day soon.
