The Camino de Santiago (or Way of St. James in English) is one of the three major Christian pilgrimage routes, along with routes to Jerusalem and Rome. Legend holds that the remains of the apostle St. James are stored below the ornate cathedral in the town of Santiago de Campostela. James is the patron saint of Spain, so the town is an important spot in the country.

Heading to the train from A Coruña to Santiago de Campostela

Each year, hundreds of thousands of people make part or all of the trek, and while in Spain, we came across many people following the multiple pilgrimage routes. There were quite a few at Finisterre, where extra-hardy pilgrims continue to end their route at the steep cliffs of the cape, and we even met folks from a few boats that made a nautical pilgrimage up the coast from Portugal before walking the final several days to Santiago.

In the queue waiting to enter the cathedral

We chose an easier route – we hopped on a train in A Coruna, and after a half-hour ride we walked the twenty minutes or so from the train station to the cathedral. While our trip paled in comparison with that of hardier pilgrims, our sense of marvel once arriving at the cathedral was probably similar – it’s an amazing structure, rising majestically over the large old town square.

The cathedral altar

While on the train ride on our micro-pilgrimage, we learned a bit more about how St James came to rest under the cathedral. Legend holds that after being beheaded by Herod in Jerusalem in year 44 AD, James’ remains were placed by angels in a rudderless boat that then sailed to northern Spain. Once making landfall, the remains were carried on land before being placed in a silver box at the site on which the cathedral would be built.

The Botafumeiro- the largest censer in the world. It weighs 176lbs (80 kg) and is 5’3″ (1.6m) tall. It requires 8 men to pull the ropes for it to swing at speeds up to 42mph (68km/hr) at a height of up to ~70′ (21 m) as it dispenses thick clouds of incense throughout the cathedral
Cathedral stained glass

After touring the cathedral, we walked through the crypt and were able to see the silver box. Whether or not St James’ remains are actually stored there seems to be a matter of some debate – the first written record attesting to it is from year 700 AD or so, and some scholars disagree with the legend.

The silver reliquary of St James in the crypt under the main altar

Whether or not one believes the legend, the cathedral and the efforts of hundreds of thousands of pilgrims each year are no less impressive.